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The tennis gods brewed up a storm around Roland Garros on Sunday afternoon as they prepared to welcome a new member into their midst. Roger Federer repelled the rain, thunder, and a certain Robin Soderling to take his rightful place among the immortals of the game.
The Swiss produced a near-flawless display, delighting his fans with the full range of shots that have made him arguably the greatest player of his era, to sweep aside Robin Soderling 6-1 7-6(1) 6-4 and seal his first-ever French Open title. The triumph enabled Federer to become only the sixth man in history to win all four Grand Slam tournaments, and also saw him equal Pete Sampras’ record of 14 majors.
The enormity of his achievement was evident on match point when Federer fell to the red earth of Roland Garros weeping tears of joy. Minutes later, Andre Agassi was on hand to present the Coupe des Mousquetaires and share in the Swiss legend’s delight as he held the trophy to the air, 10 years after the American had sealed his own career Slam with a far more hard-fought win here over Andrei Medvedev.
The tournament in 2010 should be every bit as exciting...
Paris Charles de Gaulle airport is approximately 14 miles or 23 kms from the centre of Paris. Rail: RER trains serve the airport in conjunction with ADP shuttles. Line B runs from the TGV station at Terminal 2 to Gare du Nord, Châtelet-les-Halles, St Michel and Denfert-Rochereau, with connections for the métro. TGV and Thalys trains also run to various destinations in Paris and beyond. There is an SNCF desk on the fourth floor of Terminal 2 for public transport enquiries.
Taxi: A taxi to the city centre will take around 45 minutes and cost approximately €40.
Bus: RATP buses run from Terminal 1 and 2. Bus #350 stops at Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est, bus #351 at the Porte de Bagnolet and Nation.
Coach: Air France coaches depart from Terminals 1 and 2 to Place Charles de Gaulle and Porte Maillot and to Montparnasse and Gare de Lyon. They also provide connections to Paris Orly Airport, from Terminals 1 and 2.
PARIS AND PUBLIC TRANSPORT
The Métro The Paris métro system is a marvel of efficiency, providing safe and fast transportation for more than nine million passengers each day (more on safety). It comprises over 200 kms of track and 370 stations.
Métro lines are numbered from 1 to 15, while the direction of trains is indicated by the name of the last station on the line. For example, eastbound Line 1 trains are identified Chateau de Vincennes, while westbound Line 1 trains are identified La Défense. A map of the métro system is available online in Paris Visite Pass section of our website.
To enter the métro system, insert your ticket into a turnstile slot and go through the turnstile, taking the stamped ticket: During your journey you may be required to show it to a métro ticket inspector. Follow the signs to the platform for the train you need. You may change lines as needed to reach your destination, without using additional tickets.
Métro trains begin running at about 05h30, continuing until about 00h30 (half past midnight). Free maps of the métro system are available at each station. RER trains Regional commuter trains extend the reach of public transport into the Paris suburbs. Called the RER, the five train lines are identified by the letters A, B, C, D, and E. There is an online map of the RER system available from our Paris Visite pass section. Like the métro, RER trains run from about 05h30 to about 00h30 (half past midnight).
Paris buses Paris bus routes are numbered, and begin operation at 06h30. The last bus usually leaves the terminal between 20h30 and 21h30, but a few lines run until half past midnight, as indicated by signs at the bus stops. There are also night buses, called Noctambus, which operate hourly between Chatelet and the main gates of Paris from 01h to 05h. The night routes are labelled with letters rather than numbers.
Maps of the bus routes can be found in bus shelters and inside the buses. Most shelters display the name of the stop to help you keep track of where you are. If only a few people are waiting for the bus, signal the driver to stop.
A special bus called Montmartrobus, bus line number 64, circulates in the Montmartre district. Its fare is the same as other buses.
The Montmartre funicular railway travels up and down the hill to La Basilique du Sacre Coeur, each direction requiring one ticket.
City Centre to Parc des Princes Metro: Line 9 to Pont de Sèvres (leave at 'Porte de Saint Cloud') or line 10 to Boulogne-Pont de St-Cloud (leave at 'Porte d'Auteuil').
Bus: Line 22, 72 & 62 to Porte de St Cloud or line 32 & 52 to Porte d'Auteuil.
City Centre to Stade de France Take the train line D to Saint-Denis or train line B to La Plaine and follow the crowds.
City Centre to Roland Garros Metro: Line 9 Mairie de Montreuil - Pont de Sèvres (use stations Michel-Ange Auteuil, Michel-Ange Molitor or Porte de Saint-Cloud) Line 10 Gare d'Austerlitz-Boulogne (Porte d'Auteuil station) Bus: Line 22: Opéra - Porte de Saint Cloud (get off at last stop)
BRITISH CONSULATE 35 Rue Du Faubourg St., Honore 75383, Paris. Tel: (1) 4266 9142
BANKING HOURS 0900-1630 Monday to Friday
LOCAL ATTRACTIONS
Arc de Triomphe First commissioned by Napolean in the early 1800s, this Arch at one end of the Champs-Elysses has come to be a world recognized symbol of French national pride. From the top observation deck you can get a great view of most of the famous museums and landmarks of central Paris, as well as the city's main boulevard. In the middle of a circle which connects the major arteries of Paris, the only way to get to the Arch without getting hit by a car is to use one of the underground walkways.
Basilique du Sacre-Coeur The dome affords the best view of Paris, especially at night just as the lights are coming on. This 19th century cathedral also has an observation platform on the inside of the dome where you can get a full view of the church's interior.
La Tour Eiffel For years the tallest structure in the world, this engineering marvel affords a view of over 40 miles, weather permitting, and includes a movie theatre, restaurants and a bar. Built originally in 1899 as a temporary exhibition structure, the Eiffel Tower remained when Paris discovered its utility as a city-wide communications tower.
Les Catacombs An attraction with limited appeal, but nonetheless one of the world's wonders, the Catacombs of Paris consist of almost a mile of illuminated dirt tunnels filled with human bones and skulls transposed for public health reasons from over-filled 18th century cemeteries. Also used by the French Resistance in the forties, the Catacombs have developed a mystique of their own, and are worth seeing while you are here, however briefly.
Musee du Louvre The world's most famous works of art live here, including the Mona Lisa, the statute of Venus de Milo, the ancient Winged Victory, and thousands of other priceless works many of which originally were collected privately by French royalty throughout history and donated to the museum. You will not be able to see everything, not even in several trips on multiple visits to Paris, but your experience will be better if you research ahead of time just a few things you would like to see, then check with your concierge to see which times would be best for avoiding the crowds, so you can have a more leisurely time of it.
Cathedrale de Notre-Dame At the centre of the Parisian arrondissements is the famous Notre Dame Cathedral, around which Paris was built. Since the 1100s, Notre Dame has played an integral role in Parisian history, and is one of the oldest remaining structures in the city.
Cathedrale Notre-Dame de Chartres If you have the time, it is well worth the less than 2 hour trip to see this medieval wonder of stained glass and iron sculpture. The Cathedral at Chartres contains some of the oldest surviving and most beautiful stained glass in the world, much of it dating back to the 1100s. There is so much to see here that one should allow at least a full day for the adventure. Sundays are especially popular because of the free afternoon organ concerts.
Chateau de Versailles The palace of Louis XIV, the Sun King, where the staff gathered to witness the levee of the rising monarch every morning, is a jaw-dropping excursion into the 17th century world of unbelievable opulence and ornamentation enjoyed by the royal class, which kept a safe distance from the squalor of their subjects in central Paris. You should allow a full day to see this grand siecle phenomenon, though you could spend many days there and still not see everything. Although only about 13 miles southwest of downtown Paris, plan to spend the entire day touring the palace, exotic vegetable, fruit and flower gardens, and enjoy dinner at one of the special neighbouring restaurants. Keep your car at the hotel, and use one of the many convenient public transportation or hotel shuttle alternatives available.
Cimetiere du Pere-Lachaise Visit the graves of Oscar Wilde, John-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas, legendary American songwriter Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf, Moliere, Proust, Chopin, lovers Abelard and Heloise from the 1100s, the Rothschild family, and countless other famous authors, artists, politicians and intellectual leaders collected in one highly spiritual and inspiring setting. Even Rin Tin Tin's grave is here, curiously adopted by the ever-present cats draped reverently across his monument. A visit to Pere-Lachaise is an essential element of your itinerary, and one you will never forget.
Disneyland Paris Despite its American roots, Disneyland Paris is the paradigm of European amusement parks. This 5,000 acre resort, one-fifth the size of Paris itself, is just 20 miles to the east from downtown Paris, and if you start early and allow yourself a full day, you can see a good bit of it. Your concierge can help you select from a variety of public transportation and hotel shuttle alternatives, or if you prefer, you can enjoy one of the excellent theme hotels right at the resort.
Les Egouts de Paris The underground sewers of Paris have become one of the more sophisticated arrays of conduit for drinking water, waste, telephone and pneumatic tube systems in the world. This over 1,300 mile network of alphanumerically coded arteries is an engineering as well as logical marvel. Short tours and an educational program are provided, and the experience is well worth a couple of hours on your itinerary.
Foret de Fontainebleau A little more than a half-hour's drive south of Paris will bring you to Napoleon’s former palace and the old hunting grounds of French royalty. Fans of nineteenth century French history will find their treasure here, as well as many furnishings and personal effects of Napolean and his era. Even with lunch at one of the local restaurants, the whole adventure can be done in about half a day.
Marche Buci In the gastronomic capital of the world, you must see where the best chefs of Paris weigh, squeeze, sniff and taste their produce and meats. If you are fortunate enough to have cooking facilities at your hotel, you cannot do better than to obtain your ingredients here, at this famous open-air market. Just take the Metro, stop at St-Germain-des-Pres, and you will see it.
Parc Zoologique de Paris The best way to get to one of the great zoos of Europe is by Metro, which has its own stop here. This is a habitat-style zoo, no cages, and offers a great opportunity to see wild animals truly at home. Many activities, children's programs and refreshment alternatives in the area also augment the experience, well worth a day's investment. Bois de Vincennes, 53 avenue de St-Maurice, 12e Tel: 01-44-75-20-00
Place de Pigalle The 9th arrondissement spans the spectrum of French popular entertainment culture, from brassy to elegant that defines a world famous part of the unique Parisian experience. Place de Pigalle, termed "Pig Alley" by the American soldiers present during the Allied Liberation, includes everything from the more lurid strip clubs to the famous Folies Bergere and the legendary Opera Garnier. Many of the world's famous entertainers have performed in at least one of these venues, notable poets and painters have frequented the sidewalk cafes, and you can trace their steps while you absorb a lot of the history and spirit of Parisian popular culture by spending an afternoon or evening there.
BARS
Bistro des Augustins, 39 quai des Grands Augustins, 75006, M St Michel. A small and inviting wine bar with marble counter and chalkboard wine list. Deservedly popular with local students and literary types.
Café Mabillon, 164 blvd St Germain, 75006. M Mabillon. You can’t miss the Café Mabillon with its huge illuminated sign. This is one of the area’s old-fashioned café-bars that chose to opt for a glitzy refit a few years back. The new interior has bold, snazzy colours and warm lighting. The facelift ushered out the old clientele and brought in a brasher, younger, more international crew.
Chez Georges, 11 rue des Canettes, 75006, M Mabillon. One of a handful of typical, rustic bar à vins to have escaped modernization. This is a wonderful place to get merry on the Fête du Beaujolais Nouveau, when police have been known to close the narrow street due to the wine-fuelled high jinx.
Le 10, 10 rue de l’Odéon, 75006, M Odéon. Another favourite with students thanks to its proximity to the Sorbonne, its rock-bottom prices and the potency of its sangria. When it’s particularly crowded, the atmospheric vaulted cellar is opened up. Be ready to be swept along by old French songs from the jukebox.
Le Comptoir du Relais, 5-7 carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006, M Odéon. The sort of wine bar where regulars leisurely enjoy a simple meal washed down with plenty of the good stuff. Enticing choice of homemade fruit tart or clafoutis to follow.
Café Thoumieux, 4 rue de la Comete, 75007, M La Tour-Maubourg. Coolly intimate tapas-style bar with red velvet seating, orangey rag-painted walls and snooty bar staff. Drinks and eats are suitably expensive, so sip slowly as you soak up the salsa. Absolut Vodka a snip at four shots for €16 or €77 for a bottle.
Andy Wahloo, 69 rue des Gravilliers, 75003, M Arts et Métiers. A modern Moroccan-style bar decorated with lurid Moroccan Pop Art advertising powdered milk and tinned tomatoes, stools made from paint pots, a chandelier with a dozen coloured hanging lanterns and a glowing orange bar. The tapas – Moroccan salad, tabouleh, marinated olives and so on – make a welcome change.
L’Apparement Café, 18 rue des Coutures Saint-Gervais, 75003, M St Sébastien-Froissart. A bar-restaurant where a young, hip, vaguely pretentious crowd come to play French Trivial Pursuit over a few drinks.
Bar des Ferailleurs, 18 rue de Lappe, 75011, M Bastille. On a street of themed bar-restaurants reminiscent of the tourist strip in a holiday resort, this is about the only authentic Parisian bar. It is done up with bits of old junk. You might even see locals in here.
RESTAURANTS AND CAFES
Allard, 41 rue St André des Arts, 75006. M St Michel. A former coaching inn and a long-time favourite Parisian bistro, Allard must still rank as one of the capital’s best. The food is both excellent and excellent value. The turbot with beurre blanc is sublime, the Paris-Brest unrivalled. Other specialities, for two people, include duck with olives and chicken with lentils.
Brasserie Lipp, 151 blvd St Germain, 75006, M St Germain. A Paris institution with no shortage of celebrity diners to its credit. The food is good rather than exceptional, but the decor is suitably impressive. Ask for a table in the beautifully ornate downstairs dining room.
Le Salon d’Hélène, 4 rue d’Assas, 75006, M Sèvres-Babylone. The affordable and seductive bistro of award-winning chef Hélène Darroze. Graze on the delicious tapas while lolling on the comfy cushions.
Café des Delices, 87 rue d’Assas, 75006,. RER Port-Royal. A welcoming bistro serving up traditional dishes with a mouth-watering twist. Inventive and delicious.
Ma Cuisine, 26 blvd Saint-Germain, 75005, M Maubert-Mutualité. A place for healthy appetites. Feast on roast chicken, the house speciality, followed by a choice of filling desserts. There are two-course set menus including a glass of wine for €11.50/€14 lunch/dinner, or go à la carte for about €30.
Polidor, 41 rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006, M Odéon. A popular stand-by with a different dish for each day of the week, for example tripe with potatoes on Mondays and Basque chicken on Tuesdays. The menu is very meat-based. The clientele keep coming for the reasonable prices and the busy atmosphere, but not for top-notch cuisine.
Le Timbre, 3 rue Sainte Beuve, 75006. M Pasteur. Tiny yet elegant English-owned eatery the size of a stamp. It’s a squeeze, but this is truly inspirational cuisine. Bookings essential as this is a favourite with gourmet locals. Three-course set lunches at €18 are a steal.
Au Pied de Cochon, 6 rue Coquillière, 75001,. M Les Halles. A meat-eater’s paradise, specifically those partial to grilled pigs’ trotters served with béarnaise sauce. Order with care as the portions are enormous and the food is heavy.
Bofinger, 5-7 rue de la Bastille, 75004, M Bastille. One of those enduring Parisian brasseries that has perfected the art of good food and good service with, in this case, lovely belle époque surroundings. Some people come for the oysters, others for the fun of watching the waiters rushing noisily between tables bearing enormous trays.
Brasserie Flo, 7 cour des Petites-Ecuries, 75010, M Château d’Eau. Excellent food in a wonderful panelled dining room. The decor is art nouveau, with hand-painted murals and fussy light shades. Service is friendly and efficient. Classic Flo dishes include oysters in a champagne sauce and steak tartar.
Le Petit Porcheron, 3 rue de Prague, 75012, M Ledru-Rollin. Pâtés, herrings, andouillettes and oysters: this is good French fare at reasonable prices, with a varied choice of wines. That said, it can get crowded and smoky.
Chez Paul, 13 rue de Charonne, 75011, M Ledru-Rollin. Don’t be put off by the rather dilapidated surroundings, the food more than makes up for the peeling wallpaper. A firm favourite with regular diners is the steak tartar, served with sautéed potatoes and green salad. Being one of only a few small eateries open at the weekends is another point in Paul’s favour.
Le Dauphin, 167 rue Saint Honoré, 75001, M Palais Royal. Hearty fare from the southwest served in an elegant setting complete with mosaic floor and stained-glass windows. Great food, attentive service and well-designed tables, with holders for the olive oil bottles. Special three-course lunchtime menu at €33 (not Sundays). The house speciality is la parilladas – meat, fish or vegetables on a hot plate.
L’Ardoise, 28 rue du Mont-Thabor, 75001, M Concorde, Tuileries. Simple and unpretentious, this small bistro is popular at lunchtimes and is one of the best-value eateries in the area.
Chartier, 7 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, 75009, M Grands Boulevards. As large as a train concourse and just as noisy and bustling, with barely room to squeeze between the tables. Go early, around 1900, if you don’t want to wait, as bookings are not taken. Simple canteen fare, such as egg mayonnaise and steak frites.
STAYING IN TOUCH – INTERNET CAFES
Cybercafe de Paris - 15 rue des Halles, 75001 Paris
